Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop#8: San Bernardo: Linea 4

Our life in Madrid has started to rev its engines a bit. Dan’s first class is starting in a few weeks and I started Spanish school. With all of the walking required to get from A to B and back, Dan and I are exhausted at the end of the day. The last thing we want to do is walk more, so our Metro Challenge has taken a back burner. That being said, we know one of the things about a challenge like this is that it’s going to be a burden at times and stretch us to fight our laziness.

Last night, we pried ourselves off the couch and away from Netflix and pulled a metro stop from the jar. Our hopes were that what we found around the San Bernardo metro stop would be infinitely more interesting than another episode of a Gilmore Girls.

Verdict is still out. (We do LOVE the Gilmore Girls!)

When you emerge from the San Bernardo station, a giant fountain is there to greet you. And also lots and lots of traffic. Madrid loves her fountains. You can find majestic ones in parks and the “must see” sections of Madrid, but you can actually find one on most streets. There is a pretty one in the intersection by a gas station caddy corner to our house. Beautiful, but not necessarily note-worthy.

We took the route around the station that had a florist spilling out on the street. I just can’t seem to help myself. Dan jokes with me that visiting garden centers does not appear to be making spring arrive any faster. He is right. I just have to be patient. Spring will arrive soon enough and I now have the skinny on all the good places to get plants and flowers.

We walked for quite a while on a cobblestone street with street vendors, shopping and TWO movie theaters. It’s amazing how easily we are reminded that we are in Spain when we see cobblestone streets and buildings covered in tile. Check out this one… the city sanitation department, for goodness sakes.

Finally, we found a truly PERFECT spot for dinner. La Canadienese. In full disclosure, we had heard of this restaurant before, but sneaking up on it was a wonderful surprise.

We feasted on poutine, falafels and pork ribs. All in all, the restaurant was good, just not overly Canadian. Dan could not forgive that no Canadian beer was offered and the last I checked, tuna poke bowls didn’t originate from the Great North. But, when we left, our tummies were full and spirits were high.

But not so full, that we could make room for a raspberry gelato 🙂

As far as Metro stops go, this was a fun night out, no doubt. But the area felt too familiar and predictable.

Travels 2018-2023

Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole. -Roger Caras

I bet you are wondering how the pups are adjusting to Spain.

Just like their humans, Murray, Ruby and Jezza are getting used to their new home and city.   Their adaptation appears to be ongoing… somedays are better than others.  All three are very loud in Europe! And there are so many new things to bark at…

For example, Spanish dogs walk around without leashes.  This bothers Ruby.  How could their owners do this to them?  She is extremely concerned that these dogs are going to be hit by cars or stolen or get lost.  She is very vocal in lending her support to these obedient, albeit mistreated, canines.  😊  Jezza is the biggest dog on the block (and by block, I mean the entire continent).  He demonstrates his size often and these poor Spanish dogs just don’t know what to do when they hear his deep boom of a bark. 

Since we no longer have a backyard and grass seems to be reserved for parks here, Jezza has taken to doing #2 in the middle of the street…with oncoming traffic…  In fact, his favorite location is the cross street two blocks away from our apartment that has blind corners and traffic that travels at 50kph.  It’s a delight for us to have to drag him to safety in the middle of his business. 

Murray doesn’t seem to notice that anything is different.  As long as his meals continue to be on time and his blanket is available, he’s fine. 

They do seem closer as a pack.  We notice them cuddling a lot more than they used to.  Man, is it sweet.  Two months in and our verdict so far is that they emotionally and physically made it through the journey, but their personalities are still catching up with the change.  Just like their humans!

Were we crazy to move our three dogs to Europe?  Maybe a little, but it was worth it 😊

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #7: Banco de Espana: Linea 2

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As I am sure you have seen on the news, Europe is having some temperamental weather.  A little storm they call Emma has decided to wreak havoc on the north.  And while Spain is south of all that destructive drivel, it is unfortunately not completely exempt.  Last week, we had five straight days of rain.  And Spanish rain is unpredictable.  Sometimes it’s a light mist, sometimes it’s a normal spring shower and without warning will turn into a downpour with exceptionally strong wind.  Our poor olive tree was uprooted, and the belongings of our upstairs neighbors littered our porch.   

Sunday, for the first time in a week, we got sunshine and Dan and I took advantage.  Our metro stop took us to Banco de Espana, a block south of the famous Prado museum.  Dan and I have toured the first floor of the Prado and still have another floor to go, but today wasn’t the day.  Who wants to spend a day of sunshine in a museum?  However, some of the best art can be purchased from local artists in booths outside the Prado.  This was the purpose of our trip. We have some bare walls in our apartment and I love Spanish art. It was a productive trip too.  I am happy to announce that Dan and I are now the proud owners of an oil painted rooster.  😊

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Not far from the Prado, we walked through the popular Retiro park.  Its hard to believe that we have been in Madrid for almost two months and never made it to Retiro.  I guess we can blame it on arriving in the winter.   Retiro is Madrid’s version of Central Park.  It is full of joggers, dogs, vendors, tourists, statues, topiaries and in the middle, a sweet pond where you can rent a boat by the hour.  It was the perfect way to spend a sunny afternoon in Madrid.

 

Now…back to another forecasted week of rain 😊

Travels 2018-2023

Oh, Lisbon…

As it turns out, Lisbon is not a city for dogs. But, dogs we have and travel we must, so we made the best of a less than ideal situation. Plus, how do we find out if a city is dog-friendly until we try?

First off, no person or book ever mentioned that Lisbon has cobblestone streets with hills steeper than San Francisco and when they get wet, they are slicker than ice. That information would have come in handy when Dan was renting a manual car 😊 But, he navigated the streets like a professional driver and we made it through without incident.

Our AirBNB was the sweetest 800 sq ft, but the door led onto a street the width of a tight alley with 12-inch sidewalks on either side and cars buzzing by at 30 mph. Taking the dogs out the door became an adventurous, albeit dangerous task that I was happy to come to an end. We had a stereotypical old Portuguese woman standing in the door next to us, always mumbling to us in Portuguese, in her housecoat and apron. She smiled occasionally, but she was ALWAYS there.

Lisbon is beautiful and old with her long history documented with gorgeous buildings and statues. The past greets you at the corner of most streets with architecture dating back hundreds of years. As a bonus, the Atlantic Ocean and the Tagus river make you feel like you are island-living. We even found a beach for an afternoon. Jezza loves himself a giant puddle.

The flip side is that because of the late 2000s financial crisis, Lisbon has found herself akin to a college graduate in her twenties. She is prepped with all the necessary tools for a giant breakthrough but hasn’t quite lived up to her potential and needs to be reminded to clean her room. Lisbon was hip, cool, grungy, smoky and needs a good wipe-down. Dan and I felt old walking the streets, and yearned to come back to our squeaky clean, mature Madrid.

All our photos are on the Photos tab. Make no mistake, Lisbon is full of the coolest street art to be found, amazing food, and scenery that takes your breath away.

Look for yourself…

Travels 2018-2023

Lisbon

A lot of buildings in Lisbon are covered with the most gorgeous and colorful ceramic tile. As we learned on a food tour this morning, this is because these tiles were once cheaper than paint, they fire-proof a building and the tile reflects the sun. Older buildings do not have indoor heat or air. The colors are mesmerizing. I thought I would share some of my favorites with you so far…

Travels 2018-2023

A cautionary tale…

I’m going to be honest with you guys. Sometimes, being an expat is weird on a marriage. I am ALWAYS with Dan. We depend on each other in ways we never dreamed. For example, when one of us has a bad Spanish day, the other has to step it up and have a good Spanish day. We always finished each other’s sentences before, but now I need to know the Spanish word he is struggling to find and vice versa. And I have officially taken the title of co-pilot. But then there is the support that we didn’t anticipate…

I needed a haircut. My hair is long, but getting tired and needed a trim. However, I just couldn’t get the nerve to go into a beauty parlor and attempt to speak Spanish for the duration of a salon visit. So… I asked the hubster to trim my hair…. this is what happened next.

Doesn’t look like a trim, does it? 🙂

(It actually looks fantastic and is straighter than a professional. The length is just a bit shorter than what was requested). What a life 🙂

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #6: Gran Via: Linea 1, 5

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Dan and I decided to tackle the mother of all tourist traps on Valentine’s Day… Gran Via.  From the moment you walk out of the metro, it feels more like the United States than Madrid.  All of the surrounding buildings are the ones that you see on postcards, the people were speaking English and dressed just like Dan and me, and the store fronts were familiar. 

 

I say that it feels like the United States, but the reality is that it doesn’t feel anything like Indiana.  It is the Spanish version of Broadway in New York City.  There are brightly lit marquees advertising plays and productions, movies, variety shows and concerts.  The Lion King or El Rey Leon is currently playing. Clothing stores and fast food restaurants line the street, including the first McDonalds in Spain.  (As a general rule, the Spanish don’t eat fast food and the availability is nothing like it is in America).  More than that though, there was a hustle and hurriedness that we aren’t used to anymore.  The Spanish simply don’t move that fast.   Americans that are trying to check everything off a to-do list before they catch their flight the next morning, however, move quickly. 

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I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Spanish, while not warm and fuzzy people, celebrate Valentine’s Day with enthusiasm.  The little street outside our apartment that leads to the metro was covered with hearts on every tree.  The restaurant where we had tapas had the ceiling covered in heart shaped balloons.  The metro was even full of couples loving each other more noticeably than usual 🙂 

Dan and I had a delicious perch ceviche for tapas.  It was so tasty and so fresh.  The music was loud and Latin and we found that our spirits were high just from the ambience.  Check out the sights from the rooftop terrace!  That’s our city 😊 

We then moved venues (like true Madrilinos) and had the BEST cheese fondue ever (Sorry, family, its true).  There was even a rose on my place setting when we arrived at the restaurant.  Love was certainly in the air on Valentine’s Day.  My favorite day here so far.

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #5: Alonso Martinez: Linea 4, 5 and 10

IMG_7328I have a love-hate relationship with social media. Most of the time, I appreciate it for what it is… a way to keep in contact with friends and a source for recipes, events and news articles that I would otherwise miss. Last Sunday, while scrolling through Instagram, I found the address of a bakery here in Madrid. The treats looked exotic, but there was one in particular that I thought my husband would love for Valentine’s Day. Those delicacies led us to Alonso Martinez…

 

Yes… you are seeing that correct. Macaroons flavored with Bombay gin. They are just as unique and delicious as they sound.

 

We also got a raspberry mousse and a carrot cake. I wasn’t a fan of the carrot cake, but could have devoured fifty of the raspberry mousse without a break. They were that good.

 

The evening took us on a long walk through the Alonso Martinez area, which was a cool, hipster area with a mix of funk and grunge. Incredible street art, beautiful gardens, a pop-up bookstore and a road that led us to a movie theatre that had American films. We spent two and a half hours in a bubble with popcorn and Tom Hanks. Alonso Martinez did not disappoint. And we would say that it is our favorite stop to date, but that may not be the case anymore 😊

Travels 2018-2023

The fun never ends here

You know, adventure doesn’t have to happen by the light of day. Tonight, after we took our pups for their final potty break for the evening, we noticed that our door key had fallen off of Dan’s key ring. (Our door is self locking)

There have been few times in my ridiculously fortunate life where I have been more confused on how to proceed. I took the dogs away from the apartment to let Dan think. What do you do when you have three dogs, are in your pajamas, no phone, no money, no way to communicate at 1am? I still don’t have an answer. Luckily, I didn’t have to… by the time I got back, Dan had phoned a lock smith (his phone was in his pocket). By 125am, we were back inside.

Lesson learned, universe, Lesson learned.

Cost of tonight’s potty break? 300 euros. (Price gauging is universal). :/

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #4: Noviciado. Linea 2

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Life in Madrid is not boring.  Since my last post, we have had a 48 hour snowfall, our shipping container was FINALLY delivered, and we have completed several metro stops.  Our Spanish doesn’t seem to be improving much, but we are feeling more comfortable with our surroundings and navigating the city.  The Metro Challenge seems to be accomplishing its intended goal… we are getting off our bums and exploring our new city. 😊

Make no mistake… this is a gut-checking adventure at times.  There are days when the four walls of our apartment seem to hold the only friendliness in the city.  So, last weekend we decided to seek out the other English speakers.  (Side note:  One of the quirks of Spain is that they don’t really eat breakfast.  A coffee and cigarette will get them through until mid-afternoon when they will have their three-hour lunch).  I, however, love breakfast.  It is, by far, my favorite meal of the day.  My marvelous, intuitive husband realized that I needed comfort and found us a Bagel Brunch in a second-hand bookstore that was run by Americans.  It was a lively, popular place that was full of people who also seemed to crave speaking English as much as we did.  The bagels were good, and the mimosas were delicious.  It’s funny how just an hour of familiarity fills the tank.

As we walked around Madrid, we watched Madrilinos enjoying their Saturday.  We watched a father and son play “futbol” in a square.  We took lots of pictures of Madrid’s street art.  Our observation is that Spaniards have figured out how to keep time slow.  They seem to savor life in a much different way than we Americans do.  What we didn’t notice until later was that, in just a month, we have also adopted this pace of life.  Our day was spent walking, talking, taking pictures and just being with each other.  When we returned home, we felt that Noviciado might be our favorite stop.  That was…until Tuesday 😊