Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #13: Santiago Bernabeu: Linea 10

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The number one thing most people associate with Madrid is the futbol team, Real Madrid. They are a top-ranking soccer team that, up until this season, had the most popular player in the sport, Cristiano Ronaldo, on the roster.

The stadium they play in is HUGE and modern and shares its name with the metro stop, Santiago Bernabeu.  It’s only natural then, that for this metro challenge, we visited Bernabeu stadium and watched a Real Madrid game.

There is nothing like a futbol game in Madrid.  This is our second one and the enthusiasm is electric.  The chanting is loud and contagious and the game is entertaining to watch too 🙂

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The stadium is settled in a cute neighborhood with a lot of restaurants, beauty salons and shops. It is a busy neighborhood that has a certain American feel to it.  Maybe it’s because of the Tony Roma’s across the street or because English can be heard in the crowd.  Either way, there is something comforting about the area.

We ate dinner at a Japanese fusion restaurant, Yakitoro, which came recommended by a friend. We were told that the food was delicious, but odd. Food is served family style, so my adventurous husband and I were going to have to agree on what to order 🙂

We started the dinner with a tomato salad with ginger. I don’t typically like ginger, but this was unbelievable. Very mild and clean. We followed it with sea bass ceviche (my favorite), Japanese fish tartar with spinach tempura and asparagus ice cream. Yep, you read that correctly. Asparagus ice cream. 😳. Our dessert? Spicy citrus cotton candy, which was amazing.

The best part of the evening though? Yakitoro itself. The wait staff were as good as they could get. They loved Squirms and talked to her regularly.  They even called her by name! The restaurant was clean and the other patrons were chatty. It was a wonderful meal and atmosphere.

The only negative? The menu is extensive and we had to make sacrifices on what to sample 🙂

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #12: Chueca: Linea 5

Man, I have A LOT to catch you up on…  I promise that I haven’t forgotten about you! This summer has been UNBELIEVABLE and its not over yet.  😊

So I don’t overwhelm you, Dan and I did a metro stop last week that I can’t wait to share.  We traveled to Chueca, an alternative area of Madrid and finally found a great pizza.  Pizza is a love of mine and Madrid, well, doesn’t have good pizza at all.  In fact, our real estate agent bragged that the best pizza in town was Dominoes.  :/  Not exactly exotic.

My appreciation of Instagram continues for leading us to Roostiq, recently named best pizza in Madrid.  Wanting to get out of the house for an evening, I coaxed the hubster into pizza for dinner and a Flamenco show for dessert.  Neither disappointed. The pizza was cooked in a wood burning oven.  The ingredients were from a local farm.  Dan had pork cracklings for an appetizer and they were amazing.  And for dessert, apple pie that tasted like home.  This may be my favorite date night so far in Madrid.

The Flamenco show was in a brick-walled cellar.  The stage was just big enough for five chairs and two dancers.  It was authentic Spanish flamenco.  Beautiful and loud.  I didn’t know that much about Flamenco before this evening and I exited the show with a desire to know more.  Expect more Flamenco shows in the future 🙂

June and July updates to follow…

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #11: Tribunal: Linea 1 and 10

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Make no mistake, life here in Madrid has sped up a bit.  We have slowly started to get into a groove and that equals appointments and commitments.  And while my life more resembles that of a European retreat most days, our time and attention are getting pulled in different directions like they used to back in the US.

So, after a Spanish lesson this week, we saw an opening for a little exploring and seized the day.  Metro stop: Tribunal.

I have gotten into the habit of looking at my Google maps as soon as we emerge from the metro to orientate myself within the city.  Sometimes, still, I have it completely wrong.  Where I think we are north, we are actually south and vice versa.  As it turns out, we have never been in the Tribunal metro area before.  Funny, honest confession:  We had made plans to go to Mercado San Anton (near Tribunal) for bagels one Saturday morning in early February.  But I chickened out.  It was one of those weekends where I wanted to hide my head in the sand and only hear English.  It was a weekend where I wanted to order familiar food, be in a kind environment and for things to not be so complicated.  We had more than one of these weekends.

So, how surprised were we that we had actually stumbled upon Mercado San Anton on a random weekday in May.  We marveled at the many different types of rice being sold, ordered two filets (in Spanish) from a butcher, ate a simple, yet unbelievably good, tapa with artichoke hearts, serrano ham, three eggs and cheese with the best crusty baguette you can imagine.  We then topped it off with gelato.  And this time, there was no intimidation.  It was just a lovely evening with good food.  My, how far we have come in such a short period of time. 🙂

And as always, we marveled at street art, amazing architecture and look at what else we found?  Two more checked off my list…

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #10: Serrano: Linea 4

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One of the most difficult things about being an expat is that sometimes we aren’t privy on the happenings around town.  We don’t tune into the news and our social circle is still very limited (although growing).  So, we rely on the internet to tell us what is going on and most of the time, we are late to the party.

Today is a national holiday in Spain,  The Feast of the Saint Isidore. And while I don’t know that much about the holiday itself, I do know quite a bit about the festival, Gigantes y Cabezudos, or the Festival of Giants and Big Heads.  I read about our local festival the day after it occurred and it bummed me out.  How could we miss a parade of gigantic paper mache heads bobbing through the streets?  I swore to never miss it again.  I already have the festival in my 2019 planner.

The good news is that because of missing this, I scoured the internet for more upcoming events and have found a website that I can use as a tour guide.  Which leads me to Sunday…

One of the most popular paintings in the Prado Museum is by Velasquez and its called “Las Meninas” or “Ladies in Waiting”.  When we went to the Prado, it was one the paintings that had a large crowd around it.  The little girl in the painting has a crinoline under her dress that makes her look very grown up, i.e. a little lady in waiting…(My very elementary critique).  So, just like Toronto had a painted moose exhibit or when Chicago displayed cows everywhere, Madrid has created 80 statues of “The Lady in Waiting”.  Dan and I went and found some…

The statues are scattered around Madrid until the middle of July.  Just in case you want to see them all before I post them on here…  Las Meninas.  I vow to find them all before they leave.  A majority of these were found near the Plaza de Colon.  We also found the Archaeological Museum, the National Library, an enormous Spanish flag and an outdoor patio to have lunch.  It was a perfect day.

(Also please find pictures of our dogs patiently waiting for the pool to be summer-ready and our olive tree that has about 5000 baby olive buds on it)  🙂

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #9: Anton Martin: Linea 1

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Today, on our 4 month Madrid anniversary, we have decided to profess our love for Madrid and celebrate with a planned Metro Challenge to the Anton Martin stop. How in the world has it been four months already? Apparently, we blinked.

As you have probably noticed, a lot of the metro stops here in Madrid are named after historical European figures. Anton Martin was the immediate successor of Saint John of God. He lived from 1500-1553.  In all of the metro stops we have visited (so far), there is a wall that pays homage to its namesake.

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Spain has such a rich and unique culture, we can’t seem to soak it up fast enough. And what is more Spanish than tapas? So, I signed us up for a four hour long tapas cooking class. On the menu: Sangria, Catalan cream (think crème brule), garlic shrimp, chorizo in cider, Spanish tortilla, and potato bravas. The class size was small. There were a group of four Parisian girls here for the weekend and a couple from California and our teacher. We had hands on instruction and when we left, our bellies were full.

The tapas tradition started when King Alfonso XIII (who also has a metro station named after him), insisted that bars serve food along with alcohol because workers were coming back from “lunch” drunk. And boy, did it catch on… Now, whenever you go into a bar, you are served a small dish of food (for free) before you order your drink or meal or both. Although now, they are consumed mostly between the long lunch (2-4pm) and dinner (10pm and on).

We love tapas. Most nights, we only eat tapas for dinner because they are quick, easy and healthy-ish.  Our favorite are chorizo stuffed mushrooms and pan tomate. Somehow, the Spanish have taken something so simple and made it into a lifestyle. It’s certainly a lifestyle change that is permanent in our house.

 

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop#8: San Bernardo: Linea 4

Our life in Madrid has started to rev its engines a bit. Dan’s first class is starting in a few weeks and I started Spanish school. With all of the walking required to get from A to B and back, Dan and I are exhausted at the end of the day. The last thing we want to do is walk more, so our Metro Challenge has taken a back burner. That being said, we know one of the things about a challenge like this is that it’s going to be a burden at times and stretch us to fight our laziness.

Last night, we pried ourselves off the couch and away from Netflix and pulled a metro stop from the jar. Our hopes were that what we found around the San Bernardo metro stop would be infinitely more interesting than another episode of a Gilmore Girls.

Verdict is still out. (We do LOVE the Gilmore Girls!)

When you emerge from the San Bernardo station, a giant fountain is there to greet you. And also lots and lots of traffic. Madrid loves her fountains. You can find majestic ones in parks and the “must see” sections of Madrid, but you can actually find one on most streets. There is a pretty one in the intersection by a gas station caddy corner to our house. Beautiful, but not necessarily note-worthy.

We took the route around the station that had a florist spilling out on the street. I just can’t seem to help myself. Dan jokes with me that visiting garden centers does not appear to be making spring arrive any faster. He is right. I just have to be patient. Spring will arrive soon enough and I now have the skinny on all the good places to get plants and flowers.

We walked for quite a while on a cobblestone street with street vendors, shopping and TWO movie theaters. It’s amazing how easily we are reminded that we are in Spain when we see cobblestone streets and buildings covered in tile. Check out this one… the city sanitation department, for goodness sakes.

Finally, we found a truly PERFECT spot for dinner. La Canadienese. In full disclosure, we had heard of this restaurant before, but sneaking up on it was a wonderful surprise.

We feasted on poutine, falafels and pork ribs. All in all, the restaurant was good, just not overly Canadian. Dan could not forgive that no Canadian beer was offered and the last I checked, tuna poke bowls didn’t originate from the Great North. But, when we left, our tummies were full and spirits were high.

But not so full, that we could make room for a raspberry gelato 🙂

As far as Metro stops go, this was a fun night out, no doubt. But the area felt too familiar and predictable.

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #7: Banco de Espana: Linea 2

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As I am sure you have seen on the news, Europe is having some temperamental weather.  A little storm they call Emma has decided to wreak havoc on the north.  And while Spain is south of all that destructive drivel, it is unfortunately not completely exempt.  Last week, we had five straight days of rain.  And Spanish rain is unpredictable.  Sometimes it’s a light mist, sometimes it’s a normal spring shower and without warning will turn into a downpour with exceptionally strong wind.  Our poor olive tree was uprooted, and the belongings of our upstairs neighbors littered our porch.   

Sunday, for the first time in a week, we got sunshine and Dan and I took advantage.  Our metro stop took us to Banco de Espana, a block south of the famous Prado museum.  Dan and I have toured the first floor of the Prado and still have another floor to go, but today wasn’t the day.  Who wants to spend a day of sunshine in a museum?  However, some of the best art can be purchased from local artists in booths outside the Prado.  This was the purpose of our trip. We have some bare walls in our apartment and I love Spanish art. It was a productive trip too.  I am happy to announce that Dan and I are now the proud owners of an oil painted rooster.  😊

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Not far from the Prado, we walked through the popular Retiro park.  Its hard to believe that we have been in Madrid for almost two months and never made it to Retiro.  I guess we can blame it on arriving in the winter.   Retiro is Madrid’s version of Central Park.  It is full of joggers, dogs, vendors, tourists, statues, topiaries and in the middle, a sweet pond where you can rent a boat by the hour.  It was the perfect way to spend a sunny afternoon in Madrid.

 

Now…back to another forecasted week of rain 😊

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #6: Gran Via: Linea 1, 5

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Dan and I decided to tackle the mother of all tourist traps on Valentine’s Day… Gran Via.  From the moment you walk out of the metro, it feels more like the United States than Madrid.  All of the surrounding buildings are the ones that you see on postcards, the people were speaking English and dressed just like Dan and me, and the store fronts were familiar. 

 

I say that it feels like the United States, but the reality is that it doesn’t feel anything like Indiana.  It is the Spanish version of Broadway in New York City.  There are brightly lit marquees advertising plays and productions, movies, variety shows and concerts.  The Lion King or El Rey Leon is currently playing. Clothing stores and fast food restaurants line the street, including the first McDonalds in Spain.  (As a general rule, the Spanish don’t eat fast food and the availability is nothing like it is in America).  More than that though, there was a hustle and hurriedness that we aren’t used to anymore.  The Spanish simply don’t move that fast.   Americans that are trying to check everything off a to-do list before they catch their flight the next morning, however, move quickly. 

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I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Spanish, while not warm and fuzzy people, celebrate Valentine’s Day with enthusiasm.  The little street outside our apartment that leads to the metro was covered with hearts on every tree.  The restaurant where we had tapas had the ceiling covered in heart shaped balloons.  The metro was even full of couples loving each other more noticeably than usual 🙂 

Dan and I had a delicious perch ceviche for tapas.  It was so tasty and so fresh.  The music was loud and Latin and we found that our spirits were high just from the ambience.  Check out the sights from the rooftop terrace!  That’s our city 😊 

We then moved venues (like true Madrilinos) and had the BEST cheese fondue ever (Sorry, family, its true).  There was even a rose on my place setting when we arrived at the restaurant.  Love was certainly in the air on Valentine’s Day.  My favorite day here so far.

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #5: Alonso Martinez: Linea 4, 5 and 10

IMG_7328I have a love-hate relationship with social media. Most of the time, I appreciate it for what it is… a way to keep in contact with friends and a source for recipes, events and news articles that I would otherwise miss. Last Sunday, while scrolling through Instagram, I found the address of a bakery here in Madrid. The treats looked exotic, but there was one in particular that I thought my husband would love for Valentine’s Day. Those delicacies led us to Alonso Martinez…

 

Yes… you are seeing that correct. Macaroons flavored with Bombay gin. They are just as unique and delicious as they sound.

 

We also got a raspberry mousse and a carrot cake. I wasn’t a fan of the carrot cake, but could have devoured fifty of the raspberry mousse without a break. They were that good.

 

The evening took us on a long walk through the Alonso Martinez area, which was a cool, hipster area with a mix of funk and grunge. Incredible street art, beautiful gardens, a pop-up bookstore and a road that led us to a movie theatre that had American films. We spent two and a half hours in a bubble with popcorn and Tom Hanks. Alonso Martinez did not disappoint. And we would say that it is our favorite stop to date, but that may not be the case anymore 😊

Madrid Metro Challenge · Travels 2018-2023

Stop #4: Noviciado. Linea 2

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Life in Madrid is not boring.  Since my last post, we have had a 48 hour snowfall, our shipping container was FINALLY delivered, and we have completed several metro stops.  Our Spanish doesn’t seem to be improving much, but we are feeling more comfortable with our surroundings and navigating the city.  The Metro Challenge seems to be accomplishing its intended goal… we are getting off our bums and exploring our new city. 😊

Make no mistake… this is a gut-checking adventure at times.  There are days when the four walls of our apartment seem to hold the only friendliness in the city.  So, last weekend we decided to seek out the other English speakers.  (Side note:  One of the quirks of Spain is that they don’t really eat breakfast.  A coffee and cigarette will get them through until mid-afternoon when they will have their three-hour lunch).  I, however, love breakfast.  It is, by far, my favorite meal of the day.  My marvelous, intuitive husband realized that I needed comfort and found us a Bagel Brunch in a second-hand bookstore that was run by Americans.  It was a lively, popular place that was full of people who also seemed to crave speaking English as much as we did.  The bagels were good, and the mimosas were delicious.  It’s funny how just an hour of familiarity fills the tank.

As we walked around Madrid, we watched Madrilinos enjoying their Saturday.  We watched a father and son play “futbol” in a square.  We took lots of pictures of Madrid’s street art.  Our observation is that Spaniards have figured out how to keep time slow.  They seem to savor life in a much different way than we Americans do.  What we didn’t notice until later was that, in just a month, we have also adopted this pace of life.  Our day was spent walking, talking, taking pictures and just being with each other.  When we returned home, we felt that Noviciado might be our favorite stop.  That was…until Tuesday 😊